Terracotta Warriors.

China is a BIG country. Over 1.3 billion people and geographically about the size of the United States. The country is also MUCH older with a very rich history. Somehow i managed to experience the top two most popular attractions in this large country in and around Beijing.. the Forbidden City and the Great Wall. The third most visited site in China is the home of the Terracotta Warriors. No doubt you have seen the photos.

The detail of the soldier's faces and uniforms is incredible.

Now raise your hand if you have heard of Xi'an. This is the average sized Chinese city located in the center west of the country. At over 8 million, this "average" Chinese city would be the second largest in the U.S. (twice the size of LA, just behind NYC). Xi'an is also the gateway to visiting the recently unearthed Terracotta Warriors.

The building that houses the Terracotta Army.

We all have seen the photos, but it was the fascinating details behind their existence that captivated me. Over 8,000 life-size warriors and horses were created from clay, fired in massive kilns, and painted before being buried with the Emperor of Qin 2,200 years ago. Along with the soldiers and horses were over 10,000 weapons. It was believed that the Emperor's clay army would join him in the afterlife to protect and serve him. What is amazing is that this massive underground tomb was not discovered until 1974, when a local farmer was trying to dig a well and struck something unusual.

Over 8,000 soldiers and horses stretch for nearly three football fields.

The site today is covered by a massive building to protect the soldiers while allowing visitors to see the Army for themselves. The soldiers are arranged in a battle formation, with infantry and charioteers led by three rows of elite archers. Each soldier has distinct facial features, and it is believed that the faces were modeled after actual soldiers living at the time. Even the soldier's dress is extremely detailed, down to the rivets holding their armor together. The weapons the soldiers once held were coated with a chrome saline oxide, so that after 2,200 years the weapons are still sharp!

Close-up of soldier and his horses.

The main site has not even been completely excavated. Archaeologists are trying to figure out how to dig out the soldiers without removing their paint, something they have yet to do. Also, since the first soldiers were first discovered, over 180 new sites in the area have been identified as having clay soldiers. The local authorities are trying to decide whether to continue excavating at the main site, or allocate their resources to unearthing the new sites.

Pretty good shape for 2,200 years old.

Being the curious guy that i am, i had several questions. I never hire a guide, preferring to explore a site at my own pace. However, sometimes having a guide is quite valuable for the insight you receive. I pulled aside three Chinese guides leading English groups and asked them all the same question - "The Terracotta Soldiers have facial hair, many have beards in fact, but modern day Chinese don't grow facial hair.. what's up with that?!" The first two guides had no answer, but the third explained that the Warriors were of Mongolian descent. The Mongols do grow facial hair.

Soldiers line up and ready for battle in the afterlife.

It is fascinating to see the Terracotta Warriors. I am quite curious to see if the archaeologists make any new major discoveries, particularly at one of the other 180 new sites. It is entirely possible that an even larger clay army is still out there.. waiting to be discovered.

Mt. Huashan.

The Soldiers' Trail.

A few days before i left for China a friend told me about his most incredible experience in China. He described climbing Mt. Huashan, one of China's Five Holy Mountains. He said the mountain is extremely beautiful and home to several Taoist temples. Though a challenge to reach, the spectacular views are worth it. Say no more.. there is no way i would miss it.

Everyone takes the cable car up the mountain.. everyone but me.

When the bus group i was traveling with reached the foot of Mt. Huashan, we were presented with two options. Either take the mechanized cable car to the top or hike the punishing "Soldier's Trail" straight up the side of the mountain - guess which i chose? The guide tried to talk me out of it, telling me i would never have enough time to reach the summit before the bus left. I told him i would take my chances.. this is what i came for.

It didn't take long for the views to begin.

Words to live by.

And i was right. The climb up the trail was beautiful. It was also peaceful, as i was the only one out of several thousand who took the trail option that day. On my way up, i encountered a handful of Chinese who had taken the cable car up, but were descending via the trail. They all looked at me as if i was crazy, but all greeted me with smiles and a hearty Ni hao! (hello). I even got a few Lihigh! (you are hardcore/awesome!).

Bridge and waterfall.

This guy lives in a small hut halfway up the mountain.

The trail itself was composed almost entire of stone steps, steps that led up for two miles into the sky. At several points, the steps were no more than carvings into the mountainside. Luckily, whomever built this trail (i am assuming it was soldiers, hence the name) thought to include heavy chains bolted into the rock. As you might imagine, this made climbing the carved steps possible.

This is exactly what i came for.. oh yea!

A view from halfway up the mountain.

After several grueling, sweaty hours, but less than half the time that the guide suggested, i reached the summit. As i paused to catch my breath and cool off, many of the cable car riders stared at me as if i was an alien. They were probably thinking “Who the hell in their right mind would want to CLIMB up here?” The answer: this guy.

I wish more mountains were made this way - climbing is fun!

The top of the mountain is home to several Taoist temples. It also hosts several shops and food stalls. I was completely dismayed to discover not hundreds, but thousands of Chinese tourists pouring out of the cable car and flooding the mountaintop. The crowds were so thick, it literally had the feel of being at Disneyland.

Temples and crowds.

A Taoist temple with incense sticks burning.

I didn't stay on the mountaintop long. After battling the mountain in relative peace during the climb up, i didn't feel like battling the crowds on top. After checking out a temple or two, and with time running downfor me to meet the bus back to Xi'an, i climbed into the cable car with five strangers and floated back down the mountain.

The Disneyland crowds line up for the cable car ride down the mountain.

Beijing Olympics 2008.

The official 2008 logo.

I have a confession to make. When Beijing was announced as the host for the 2008 summer Olympics back in 2001, i was disappointed. I had been pulling for Paris, simply because it is one of my favorite cities in the world. Also, many felt that awarding Beijing the Olympics would be seen as condoning China’s human rights violations and its occupation of Tibet. Still others felt that hosting the Olympics would put pressure on China to reform and modernize. In short, both are coming true.

China's prodigal son, Yao Ming is a force on the court and in advertisements.

Hosting the Olympics is a huge opportunity for the host country. Billions of dollars in tourist revenue and corporate sponsorships flood into the country. The host city benefits from the construction of new roads, subway systems, and state of the art sports facilities. But possibly the most important aspect of hosting the Olympics is the global exposure a city and country receive. If the games are seen as successful, tourism and general worldwide interest will continue for years.

Think Beijing is excited? The countdown is on.

In 2004, Greece was running far behind in its preparations as Olympic hosts. Several facilities hadn’t even begun construction just months before the games were to begin. There was even word of a backup plan that would send the Olympics back to Sydney in the event that Athens failed to be ready. In China, the story is completely different. Beijing just may be the most prepared city in the history of the Olympics.

China's Olympic slogan - One World, One Dream.

It is still over a year before the games will take place, but Beijing is far ahead of schedule in its preparations. In the next few weeks, the city will stage a “dry run” of the Olympics - a full year before the real games. Over a million cars will be taken off the streets and mock events will be held to test crowd control and transportation facilities. It also gives the city a chance to show off its new facilities to the public.

The Olympic mascots all wrapped up and ready to go.

Construction is taking place all over the city and the completion date for everything being built is the same – before the Olympics begin. Over two million Chinese migrant workers have come to Beijing from other parts of the country for the current construction boom. A few months before the games, they all will be kicked out. I spoke with a reporter for a state-owned Chinese newspaper and when i asked him about this, he put it differently: “These workers aren’t actually from here, so they’re not being kicked out. They will be encouraged to return to their home provinces.” In China, encouraged means mandatory.

Corporate sponsorships are already in full swing.

After seeing firsthand such dramatic improvements, i am now very glad that Beijing has the opportunity to host the 2008 games. Paris is already a great city and has less room to improve. The Chinese people are so proud to be hosts and are eager to show their country off to the world. Still, i worry that China’s growing economic muscle and international profile is enough for the global community to turn a blind eye to many of the unseemly activities that still occur behind closed doors. I also worry about the future of Tibet, with sovereignty becoming less and less likely, China is working hard to see that the culture is quietly being extinguished. In the end, there is little doubt that the Olympics will be a smashing success - the Chinese wouldn't have it any other way.

Advertisements every 20 feet in the Xi'an airport.

Grocery Shopping!

Ni hao! Look familiar?

When i found out there was a Wal-Mart less than a mile from my apartment, i just HAD to check it out. I'm glad that i did. Not only was it a fascinating experience, but an MBA group from Notre Dame that was in town went there for a "field trip".. so i didn't feel so silly. The inside looks pretty much like Wal-Mart stores do back in the States, but everything for sale is different.

Wal-Mart's aquarium aisle, and no, these fish aren't meant as pets.

The fresh fish section is huge, and when i mean fresh, i mean ALIVE. The woman in the picture was checking out her potential dinner when a bagged fish started flopping around on the counter. She shrieked, while i tried to not let her see me laughing. A friend explained to me that the Chinese like to see their food as fresh as possible. Often times this means that the food on your plate looks like it was alive 20 minutes ago, and that just may be the case.

You won't see this for sale at Wal-Mart in Arkansas.

In case you can't get enough fresh seafood, there is plenty to
be discovered in the DRIED seafood section. I hear it lasts longer.

Apparently, Wal-Mart isn't doing so well in China. Their business model in the States relies on low cost products.. from China. So when you start selling in China, where do you get products that are lower cost than everyone else's? Also, it is expensive and difficult to maintain distribution of the fresh (or alive) food products that the Chinese crave. Still, with nearly 80 stores in the country, they are pressing forward as they work out the kinks.

There is all this China food safety talk in the news right now..

but these wrapped up vegetables look like the safest i've ever seen!

Breakfast cereal and coke. Can someone explain this to me?

Lost in Translation

I have traveled to a country or two and have always prided myself on learning the basics of the local language. I have found that people really appreciate it when you attempt to communicate with them in their own language. Prior to coming to China, i checked out the Pimsleur language CDs for Mandarin and began practicing. I also borrowed language books from two different friends and began learning the basics.

An average storefront.

By the time i reached China and began practicing my new language skills, it all fell apart. You see, unlike any other language i have encountered before, there are four tones in the Chinese language. This means that one word, for example “ma”, can be pronounced with a flat (ā), rising (á), falling (à), or rise then falling (ă) sound. The result is four completely different words. Now imagine a single word with multiple tones, such as “néehăo,” which means hello. Try and string several words together with multiple tones and it gets real tricky real fast.

A man write Chinese characters at night with a sponge brush and water.

Often when i think i am saying the correct word, the pronunciation is so difficult i am rarely understood. To complicate matters even more, you will often see Latin letters beneath Chinese characters to “aid” non-native speakers. This is called pinyin. However, the Latin pinyin spelling is rarely phonetic and only leads to more confusion.. and we haven’t even gotten to the Chinese characters yet!

A few things are easier to translate than others.

So i have been reduced to pointing at Chinese characters in my mandarin dictionary, jabbing at maps, or using the few words i can say that are understood to get around. For example, the word “jiga” means “this”, so by pointing in a direction and saying “jiga jiga” i can get a cab driver to go in the direction i think is correct.

A restaurant, barber shop, or laundromat? Your guess is as good as mine.

In the English language, we have 26 letters in the alphabet. Meanwhile, some Chinese dictionaries have over 100,000 characters! However, the average educated Chinese person knows only around 600-800 characters. Each character corresponds not only to a sound, but also has meanings attached to the character. It is common in China to have business cards in English on one side and in Mandarin on the other. I asked my colleagues at work to help me come up with my Chinese name. They chattered excitedly in Mandarin, debating the most appropriate fit for both my current name and my personal attributes. After a fair bit of debate, i was presented with my Chinese name.

My Chinese name is spelled “Hè Wén Qíang,” pronounced “Huh when chee-ong,” and has several meanings. In Mandarin, the last name comes first. I share my family name, hua, with a great modern general in the Chinese military. I am lucky to have such a prestigious name. I have an Australian friend here who was given a name that loosely translates to “horse sex.” Needless to say, the Chinese have a good laugh every time he presents his business card.. poor guy!

Chinese Food, in China.

It's family style here in China - dig in!

One of the great things about traveling is trying the local food. But we all have had Chinese food, right? What you may not realize is that you probably have only eaten American Chinese food. I don’t think i have had a single Chinese dish here that looks anything like the Chinese food found in Western countries. In China, there is no such thing as “Chinese food.” Instead, you can choose from cuisines derived from various regions of the country. A few examples include Guangdong, Guangxi, Hakka, Hunan, Imperial, Jiang-Zhe, Shaanxi, and last but not least, the often mouth numbing Sichuan.

A sampling of hot and spicy Sichuan dishes.

A highly stylized dessert.

Sharing a meal in China is a bonding experience. Nearly every business meeting i’ve attended finished in us sharing a meal together. This is not a bad thing at all. One thing that surprised me is that a giant lazy susan is usually found at the center of every table, while each dish is served in succession family style. It’s fun catching your food as it slowly spins by.

Some friends and i share an awesome meal.

A typical street food stall.

Street food is also quite popular in China. You can find everything from dog to scorpion grilled up and served on a stick. I prefer to stick to the more conventional lamb and chicken. After a night out drinking with some friends, i asked where we could get something in eat. In Arizona and California the late night food is Mexican, in DC it’s jumbo slice pizza or empanadas, and in Beijing its grilled kebabs of meat. The kebabs are grilled over an open flame and served up piping hot. They also are super cheap.. about 13 cents for each one. So we ordered up twenty!

Grilling up our order of kebabs.

Preparing to dominate a lamb kebab fresh off the grill.

Work Life.

Our office in Beijing is my organization's single largest office in the world. Kind of gives you the impression that the U.S. perceives China as important, doesn’t it? In Beijing alone we have a staff of over 70, while our numbers total 140 throughout China. Many of these employees are Chinese who are bilingual and assist us in making connections with the local business community.

That's my office on the top floor.

I am currently working on the 31^st floor of a high rise building in downtown Beijing. The U.S. Embassy building is just a few blocks away, but space there is limited. A brand new Embassy building is currently being constructed, and when it is completed in 2008, all U.S. personnel will be consolidated under one roof. With the Olympics around the corner, it seems as if everything currently under construction is set to be completed before the games begin.

The view from my office, showing off the best air quality since i arrived.

Foreign service officers rotate to their new posts during the summer months and gaps between officers are a regular occurrence. I am currently filling in the gap for an officer who recently left for Australia, while the next officer prepares to arrive from DC in August. It is a fascinating life, and the officers i am working with are all very dynamic.

The view on an "average" day; on a "poor" day, i can't see ANYTHING!

In addition to the Foreign Service officers, we work with quite a few Chinese. My Chinese colleagues are quite savvy and their dedication is inspiring. They also have made every effort to make me feel welcome. My first week, several of my new colleagues offered to take me out for lunch to a famous local restaurant. The food was fantastic!

Our male colleague who was invited couldn't make it.. seriously!

Beijing Hikers.

Beijing Hikers exploring natural China.

Shortly after arriving in China I picked up several local English papers to see what is happening in Beijing. I am still blown away by the sheer number of options you have as a Beijing resident. Regardless of your interests you are sure to find something interesting. The city offers everything from tango classes, calligraphy lessons, art exhibitions, Chinese opera, live jazz, organized mountain bike trips, and even pickup games of cricket. In terms of culture and activities, I feel Beijing is right up there with DC.

My first weekend I linked up with Beijing Hikers, a local group that heads outside the city every weekend to get some fresh air and explore the natural environment. As you all must know by now, this is right up my alley. I was excited to get my first glimpse of China outside the capitol.

Our group of 14 met up at a Starbucks just before 7am and we all piled into the minibus waiting nearby. An hour later, we were outside the city and winding up the side of a steep green mountain. Despite being so close to the city, the area in which we were hiking is very rural and a number of farmers could be seen working their small fields.

Not what you'd expect to see in China, is it?

We began the hike in a small village and were soon pressing through lush vegetation at the bottom of a canyon. In some ways, the area reminded me of Shenandoah in Virginia. After a few hours, the canyon opened up in spectacular fashion. The group scrambled over rocks and helped each other along as we continued on our way.


I met an awesome Australian couple named Karl and Amy during the hike. They are originally from Melbourne, so we had plenty to talk about. Karl works as an editor and amateur photographer for a major newswire service while Amy works for IBM. After several years in Hong Kong and Singapore, they moved here. They were pretty impressed with my knowledge of Australia, especially the fact that I still follow the footy (Aussie rules football). In case you are wondering who i barrack (root) for, the Hawthorn Hawks are my side. They are currently in 2nd place out of 16 teams and are having their best season in years!

My first encounter with the Great Wall.

I knew that we would get to see a remote section of the Great Wall on the hike. What i did not realize is that i would get to see the 'Wild Wall.' The sections of the wall most visited have been rebuilt in order for tourists to see how the wall once appeared. The section we visited is how most of the wall (or what is left) appears today.

Truly.. the nickname Wild Wall is well deserved.

Remnants of the guard tower.

Personally i prefer Wild Walls over tame walls.