Tai Chi + Chinese Fitness.

Welcome to Ritan Park.

If you really want to get a feel for Chinese culture, a visit a city park in the morning is an absolute must. The local park is a place that is buzzing with activity, with groups of people practicing tai chi to couples practicing dance steps, friends playing ping-pong or people working out on the parks many “exercise machines.” In some place, calligraphers write Chinese characters on the sidewalk with sponge brushes and water, the ultimate exercise in impermanence. Elderly men bring their birds in cages, and while the men sit and catch up with one another, it is said that the birds get their workout by clinging to their perches.

Large groups practice taijiquan.

Women practice their dance steps.

On Saturday I got up at 6am to meet my taijiquan (tai chi) instructor at the large park near my apartment called Ritan Park. My colleague at the Embassy put me in touch with her son’s martial arts instructor, Dong Li Jian. Full of energy and extremely strong, Dong agreed to meet me for an introductory lesson to tai chi. Although he doesn’t speak English, and my mandarin is basic at best, we were able to communicate with hand signals and pantomime. After all, much of tai chi is based on imitating the motions of those around you.

Ping pong is extremely popular in China.

Advanced practitioners perform tai chi exercises with swords

Parallel bars, anyone?

Tai chi is widely practiced in China, and it is not uncommon to see folks well into their 60s and 70s moving fluidly with the motions of the group. I was attracted to tai chi for its meditative element. However, tai chi is still a martial art, and significant attention is given to posture and correct form. It is similar to yoga in that your entire concentration is focused on the motions of your body and your breathing, while the tensions of everyday life are simply pressed from your mind.

Practicing taijiquan with my instructor.

Dong Li Jian and I.

After my lesson with Dong, I strolled through the park and was both amazed and amused by what I encountered. More than anything, I couldn’t believe the level of physical activity by people of all ages. I have never seen this is any other country, and cannot even imagine Americans exercising together en masse on a Saturday morning. The trail near my house sees people jogging or biking on the weekends, but here many of the activities are done in groups. Collectivists vs. Individualists.. perhaps?

See below for some additional photos and several videos!

Exercise machines in full effect.

Gearing up for the Olympics!

Some folks playing cards.

VIDEOS!

Man practicing his ribbon flow.


Exercise machines in action!


I love this one.


I call this one the "butt machine."


And you thought Jazzercise was exciting.

The Chinese version of hackey sack.

the Forbidden City.

Entering the Forbidden City.

The Forbidden City lies just beyond the Gate of Heavenly Peace and was originally constructed between 1406 and 1420 by over a million laborers to showcase the Emperor's power and wealth. Over the next 500 years, the complex was added to many times over by successive emperors and today is comprised of over 800 buildings. The 14 Ming and 10 Qing Emperors who resided here lived a life of absolute luxury, sealed off from their kingdom on the outside.

The Forbidden City truly is a city unto itself.

It wasn't until 1949 during the People's Revolution that the City was first opened to everyone. Today, the city is remarkably well preserved and acts as a window into the rich dynasties that rules for centuries. It is not just foreign tourists who flock here. Many Chinese come to see the splendor that was kept hidden from them for so long.

All of the renovation takes place by hand. It can take ten years to complete one section.

But the payoff is well worth it.

The detail is extremely impressive, not to mention beautiful.

I particularly love the names of the various halls and palaces found in the Forbidden City. A sampling includes the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Palace of Heavenly Purity, the Palace of Earthly Tranquility, and the Thousand Autumns Pavilion. Each hall was built at a different time under a different Emperor and stands as a testament to that Emperor's reign.

Inside the Hall of Preserving Harmony

The physiology may be off, but skill of the craftsman certainly isn't.

It surely was a sight when these hand carved fountains sprung alive.

This zoomed in shot shows just one corner of a rooftop, the details are incredible!

My Beijing pad.

My apartment building in Chaoyang

I am living in an awesome part of the city called the Chaoyang district. This area is close to several embassies and is known for its large expat population. As the crow flies, i am situated just about a mile and a half due east of Tienanmen Square. I love it because it is just a two block stroll to work in the morning (best commute ever!) and the subway station Guomao is literally steps away. I have no trouble getting around the city using the subway or taking taxis. The apartment building is a bit of a landmark, and though my Mandarin is limited, cabdrivers seem to know the location well.

China World Apartments.

The driveway entrance to my building.

My work has put me up in a posh apartment in the China World complex, which includes restaurants, a supermarket, countless stores, and even an ice rink! Several of my colleagues live in this building as well, so it makes meeting up to go out a snap. The apartment has its own full kitchen and washer and dryer, which is super convenient. And last but not least, my room is serviced each day, so i don't even have to make my bed!

My bed. Pillows anyone??

The bedroom.

Bathroom.

Living room.

Kitchen.

Beijing: First Impressions.

After a 13 1/2 hour direct flight i was eager to stretch my legs and explore the city. Despite all of the dire descriptions i'd heard about Beijing's terrible pollution, i was pleasantly surprised to arrive on a very lovely sunny day. Only later did i find out that major rain the day before had cleared the skies resulting in the most beautiful day anyone could recall in months.

A favorite of mine, this series depicts the four seasons.

I checked into my plush apartment and hit the streets. Just seconds after leaving my building, two friendly college students approached me and began chatting me up. A few minutes later, they invited me to check out their school art exhibition. Being the art lover that i am.. i quickly accepted the invitation. The art was being displayed in a small gallery and they eagerly showed me around, pointing out the symbolism in the pieces and shyly displaying their own pieces.

This friendly art student displays her art.

Though several of the pieces were quite good, after i had seen it all came the pitch.. "We are college students and really need to sell something. Today is the last day of the exhibition and your only chance to buy our work." I took down their mobile numbers but told them i wasn't in the market for any art that day. In the next hour, i met half a dozen art students who all happened to be having exhibitions that day.

Beijing's modernity is evident everywhere.

As i took in the city on my way towards Tienanmen Square, i marveled at the modern buildings and well manicured boulevards. When i finally arrived at the Gate of Heavenly Peace i was awestruck. Though i had seen the photos, there is something incredibly dramatic about the sudden openness of Tienanmen Square and austerity of the Gate featuring Mao presiding over the China he forged. You cannot help but feel that this place is the heart of Communist China.

The Gate of Heavenly Peace

People mill about everywhere, mostly Chinese tourists who have made a pilgrimage to see their capital. Republic guards stand watch to ensure that no one gets out of line. This is the place that Mao declared the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949. When he died in 1976, millions from all over the country came here to pay their respects. And in 1989, this is where students supporting democracy were slaughtered in the thousands.

As i snap picture after picture of the Square and Gate of Heavenly Peace, two Chinese girls named Vicky and Nina (it is not uncommon for Chinese to select English names in addition to their regular names) strike up a conversation. They ask if we can practice speaking English together. Both girls are currently studying English and Chinese history in hopes of finding jobs as tourist ambassadors during the Olympics next summer. Although i am always on the lookout for scams, their friendly and earnest demeanor put me at ease. They suggest showing me a nearby hutong, or historical neighborhood. After a few hours walking in the thick warm air, the girls assure me that a cold beer can be found there and we set off together.

It looks like somebody always wanted to be a soldier - check out the guy in the back!

Just outside the walls of the Forbidden City, we made our way down a leaf shaded side street through the hutong to a small tea house. We are ushered into a small elaborately decorated room. A cold Tsingtao beer appears before me within moments. The girls ordered tea and said a "traditional tea ceremony" would be performed.. awesome. Fresh watermelon and small cookies were served automatically. The tea hostess performed an elaborate mixing and straining of the various teas before serving them in tiny cups. Though i had only ordered the beer, the hostess invited me to sample the teas as well. The teas themselves were very strong in both aroma and flavor.. quite delicious as well.

The tea hostess whips up a batch of tea.

While we sipped the tea, we chatted about Chinese history and the tea we were sampling. The tea hostess didn't speak English, so Vicky and Nina translated the various tea descriptions. Nina asked for my help with a written English lesson, and i obliged. The tea hostess offered some loose leaf tea for us to take home, but i passed. A few minutes later she returned with the bill, and that is when the trouble started.

Vicky offers a toast.

Enjoying some tea, in happier times.

The bill was presented to me and i was astonished to see a total of 1,500RMB. Though i had just arrived in the country a few hours earlier, it didn't take me long to calculate that the tea hostess was asking $200 for the beer and tea! The beer i ordered cost just $3, but each mini cup of tea was listed as $7 per person in addition to a "room rental fee." I knew something was amiss when Vicky and Nina tried to convince me to just cough up the cash for all of us or else "we won't be able to leave." I protested, telling them the only thing i actually ordered was the $3 beer. This went on for several minutes before i realized i needed to get out of there.. and fast. I put down $10 for my beer plus a tip and got up to leave. Once outside, my two new "friends" suddenly were not so friendly and said they had to be somewhere all of the sudden.

All lit up, the mood is almost festive.

Standing guard: the Gate is now closed.

It was dark now, and feeling a bit disappointed in the traditional tea ceremony i made my way back to the Gate of Heavenly Peace. A friend told me not to miss the Gate and Square at night, and he was right. Lights came on to give the place an almost festive feel. I grabbed a seat on the curb and just watched the life around me for several minutes. Young couples strolled along the boardwalk while laughing children chased each other and entire families posed for pictures with Mao. A soft pleasant breeze helped to remind me that while i was a long way from home, some things are always the same. Thankful to be alive, and feeling incredibly lucky to have this experience, i set off into the night.

"Wherever you go, there you are"

Chinese Etiquette

As you might imagine, Chinese culture is much different from Western cultures. Before taking off on the 13.5 hour direct flight, i printed out several pages with "helpful hints" and reminders about how to behave in China. Below are several of my favorites:

• Behavior: Do not try to become too friendly too soon.
  
• Behavior: It is considered improper to put your hand in your mouth.
• Behavior: Do not eat all of your meal. If you eat all of your meal, it will be assumed that you did not receive enough food and are still hungry.
  
• Behavior: The Chinese are not as understanding of drunk guests as the Japanese. If you feel you've had enough to drink, smile and politely indicate this to your host.
  
• Communications: Avoid telling American style jokes. Sometimes these jokes do not translate and can cause confusion or hurt feelings.
  
• Communications: Many Chinese will want to consult with the stars or wait for a lucky day before they make a decision.
• Communications: Do not use the word "comrade" to address others.
  
• Taboo: Under no circumstances should chopsticks be placed in rice standing up. This symbolizes death.
  
• Taboo: Never write anything in red ink
  

The Chinese character for "prosperity" composed of butterflies.

Gift giving is an important part of building guanxi, or the relationship bond between people. I particularly appreciate this attitude towards gifts:

Do not expect your gift to be opened in your presence.
This indicates that it is the thought that counts more than the material value.

Detail of "Prosperity" butterflies

China: An Introduction

China is home to over 1.3 billion people. Slightly smaller than the United States in size, the People’s Republic of China (or PRC) is the single most populated country in the world (the U.S. population is about 300 million). Since instituting market reforms a number of years ago, the Chinese economy has exploded like a rocket headed for outer space. Such dramatic growth generates unprecedented development and prosperity. It also brings pollution and greater scrutiny of labor practices. And in case you forgot, the country remains very much a Communist nation.

Men crowd around to watch a chess-like match

Just a few weeks ago i found out that i would have the opportunity to live and work in Beijing for a month. It couldn’t be a better time to be in China. All eyes will be on the country next summer when Beijing hosts the 2008 summer Olympics. Meanwhile, business activity is at a fever pitch. Investors and businesspeople from around the world are eagerly pursuing opportunities in China hoping to grab a slice of the proverbial pie.

Construction cranes remake the city skyline

In order to prepare for this experience, i began studying Mandarin and tai chi in the weeks leading up to my departure. I also picked up several books, including Paul Theroux’s Riding the Iron Rooster, which details the surly but perceptive travel writer’s travels through China by train. Another book i am reading is titled, get this – Foreign Babes in Beijing. This is the true story of an American woman who moved to Beijing right out of college and stumbled into a starring role in a hit Chinese television series of the same name. Her writing is fresh and provides a very insightful account of what it is like to experience Chinese culture as an outsider.

Gleaming skyscrapers show off the new Beijing

I am extremely excited to see firsthand what all the buzz is about. I hope you follow along and enjoy some of the experiences i have to share. As always, your comments are welcome!